Alice Austen, far left, and other members of The Darned Club on Oct. 29, 1891.Courtesy Collection of Alice Austen House

Born into Victorian tradition in 1866, Alice Austen enjoyed a position in Staten Island society that gave her freedom to pursue what she dubbed "the larky life," a whirlwind of fashionable gatherings and mischief that challenged social norms. But it was the gift of a wooden box camera from her uncle -- and a chance meeting in the Catskills -- that set the course for how Austen would be remembered beyond Gilded days: as one of America's earliest and most adventurous women photographers and for her relationship with Gertrude Tate, which spanned more than half a century.

Though her father abandoned her mother when she was an infant, Austen enjoyed a luxurious lifestyle with extended family in their home called Clear Comfort, overlooking the coastline of the New York City borough of Staten Island. She perfected imagery of her natural surroundings, social doings and "the sporting society set" in a darkroom fashioned from a closet. Her photos serve as a portal to the Gilded Age, with images of the annual regatta, boathouse bathers, charity balls and lawn tennis, a sport newly open to women who were too restricted by corsets to actually run for the ball.

When cycling took off, so did Austen, similarly constrained by long skirts that could catch in the spokes; even so, with heavy camera equipment mounted on her bicycle, she ferried to Manhattan, where she famously documented turn-of-the-century urban life, enshrining the likes of street sweepers, rag pickers, egg sellers and messengers to gelatin print -- producing her 1896 "Street Types of New York" portfolio.

As adept at arranging portraiture as igniting flash powder over a night bloom of flowering cactus, Austen also delighted in making gender-bending exposures of female friends. Nicknamed "The Darned Club," they posed in undergarments with cigarettes, men's suits with fake mustaches and together in bed in Victorian nighties.

"She was in a period where she and her friends were really embracing this concept of the 'New Woman,'" said Victoria Munro, executive director of the Alice Austen House, the original Austen residence, which also serves as a museum and exhibition space.

"She created clubs with these new activities that women were able to do, unchaperoned by men -- and they were safe spaces for her and her circle of women friends who were, many of them lesbian, able to be together and have fun and really celebrate," Munro said. "There was also a certain amount of freedom in the 1880s and 1890s, because women weren't yet considered to even have a sexuality ... so they weren't even suspected of this kind of perceived bad behavior."

Photographer Alice Austen was the queer star of the Gilded Age